TuneMatic technical notes from actual emails received and responded to (updated 08/17/2019)
Why not use tune button on rig?
Although many rigs contain a ‘tune’ button, they are typically designed to interface with a manufacturers recommend tuner. Most of the time, there may be sophisticated communications protocols between the rig and the tuner. Rather than try to manipulate the protocols, which on occasion, may not be reliable, TuneMatic contains a small remote button panel, which contains all the functions necessary to operate TuneMatic with your rig.
Secondly, by using our own controls, it enables TuneMatic to operate on both current and legacy rigs, as many legacy rigs are not equipped with a tune function.
Yaesu FT857/897/991/891 changing the rig ALC settings to work with TuneMatic :
Those settings do not matter with TuneMatic operation. TuneMatic interfaces with your radio through the accessory port keyline. When this port sees a ground, it places the rig into 100w CW tune mode. At the same time, an ALC generator inside the interface box sends a negative voltage (depending on how you adjust the pot) to reduce the power to a safe tune level (10-15 watts). The DIN plug you inserted into the rig from the interface provides the on/off switching of the microprocessor in the TuneMatic and remote backlight, as well as the power to the ALC circut in the interface box.
Encountering bad tunes:
When TuneMatic keys the rig, it measures the frequency, swr, and power range. There is an internal frequency counter that actually measures the rig transmit frequency. At the same time, it is measuring the pulse count and antenna current, in case it goes past the soft limits and stalls out.
The software (since 1/2015) does not require the user to press the TUNE button a second time after it moves to the memory frequency. The original intent was to allow the user to either allow the manual selection of auto-tune, or just allow it to timeout. This version does this automatically, but you can bypass the auto feature, by holding the INIT button(2 small circled arrows) on power up. It resets back to full auto on next power up.With the newer software, it is a feature option.
The EEEEE message indicates that it assumed the frequency was already stored, when it keyed the second time, it didn’t like the SWR reading, and it was warning you that the SWR was not acceptable to TuneMatic limit.
Keep in mind the auto SWR tune feature can depend on many outside parameters. My recommendation is to manually store favorite frequencies, and you won’t have any odd issues like you experienced.
RODA antenna :
TuneMatic utilizes pulse counting and current sensing as well as frequency and SWR parameters from the antenna.
From what I read on the site, the RODA antenna utilizes a ‘Turns Counter’ circuit, according to their documentation, as well as a thermal current limiting device in case of antenna overload. What I do not know is how quickly this current limiting device operates, as TuneMatic also contains a current limiting feature. Hopefully TuneMatic will sense the current first, but I would recommend contacting the manufacturer to determine when their limiting occurs.
Does the Kenwood TS-480SAT work together with your tuner (interface)?
Yes, it it directly interfaces. The connections are to the antenna tuner port (for power to wake up the micro in TuneMatic), and the serial RS-232 connection (to communicate with the rig). The interface box sends specific TXTUNE commands to the rig to key it in a safe 10w power level.
Can I extend the interface control cable from the TuneMatic to the interface unit?
Yes, the cable from TuneMatic to the rig interface box is a standard PC-style power connector, typically found in most Personal Computer power supplies. The cables from the box to the rig are approximately 0.5 meter, but I can customize one for you if you need.
Antenna motor connection on non-TarHeel antennas:
Typically TarHeel supplies an extension cable from their antenna to a male plug, which mates with TuneMatic 4 pin female square connector. If you do not use a TarHeel antenna, we can supply a pigtail. You must specify this need when ordering. Other manufacturers typically supply their own cable from their antenna, so the pigtail would connect to the manufacturers antenna cable. It allows quick connect and disconnect to the TuneMatic motor cable.
If you want to make your own pigtail cable, the mate and pins for the 4 pin square connector for the motor is:
Connector, male, 4 pin 0.062 series Molex 03-06-2044
Pins, male, 0.062 series Molex 02-06-2103
Available from www.mouser.com or similar companies.
Heed the pinout wiring (1 & 2 is motor, 3 & 4 is pulse sensor) Pins 1 & 2 can be easily identified as the pins between the notch in the connector.
TuneMatic will operate up to 200 watts. If you plan to use additional power with an external amplifer, you would connect the amplifier AFTER the TuneMatic unit. We offer a relay option, which causes the keyline from the rig to the amp to open during TuneMatic operations.
You said ” This interface supplies RS-232 commands to the user” Does this mean the Tunematic sends commands to the radio?
No, the TuneMatic sends commands to an external monitor, RS232 device, or something that can accept RS232 data at 57600 baud. The commands are in lieu of the Morse messages, for the purpose of an external LCD display (future product). The RS232 was already incorporated into the software, so it is already available.
Does the radio send commands to the Tuner such as frequency to tune to?
No, the frequency is read off the antenna/rig port loopthru.
I have designed and built a multiband ground plane 1/4 wave vertical that adjusts the length of the radiating element with a motor, similar in concept to the StepIR vertical antennas.
Do you see any potential problems using your Tunematic controller on my antenna?
As long as you have a means to measure motor rotation (like most screwdriver antennas), it will work. TuneMatic is dependent upon the pulsecount of the antenna, so that it can recall and return to a stored pulsecount.
The black wire is the ground(negative power lead) . I would recommend connecting the red and black leads in parallel with your rig connection power. The ground screw on the chassis is optional. Take note that the black wire also connects to chassis, but you won’t hurt anything connecting a separate ground (to your vehicle chassis for example) as well. This is a standard 6-32 thread.
First start on setup:
Set your DIP switches. then make sure the antenna moves up and down with no current limit conditions (prior to initialization). If it does not stop prior to reaching either end, then it should be a good starting point.
What happens and how it works in general:
As you probably know, TuneMatic adjusts the resonant frequency of the antenna, by monitoring the pulse count (a sensor in the antenna), motor stall (where current rises at end of travel), RF frequency, and the VSWR of the RF passing through the connection between TuneMatic and the antenna.
TuneMatic uses the accuracy of the pulses from the antenna to remember where to return to when recalling memories. The process begins after you “initialize” the antenna, whereas the motor moves to one direction (upwards=lower frequency) until it reaches the current limit point of the antenna, then moves down, counting pulses until it reaches the bottom limit. From there, it ‘parks’ the antenna at the lower soft limit (a point a few pulse counts away from the current limit); both ends of the antenna have the soft limits set once the max pulsecount is known.
When setting up the antenna, the user is instructed to set a reference point in each band (best tune). These points are stored, so that when the user wants to recall and return, those points are the starting points to begin at for each band. So when the user presses the TUNE button on the TuneMatic remote, it keys the rig for a 1/2 second or so, measures the transmit frequency, and looks up in memory where the closest frequency is to the transmit frequency, and moves the antenna to that reference point. It then stops, and keys the rig again, and either stays where its at (if the VSWR is <=1.5), or begins to tune away from the reference frequency, in the correct direction. Then it looks for an SWR ‘null’, passes through it, then returns back to the null. If the null is <=1.5, it stores it. If >1.5 but <2:1, it stops (but does NOT store the antenna position) at the null with the appropriate message.
As more frequencies are stored, less time is spent requiring nulling and tuning. Eventually all frequencies can be stored and recalled with no additional tuning.
First step autotune result:
TuneMatic has the ability to send a particular Morse code message in the first step in the tuning process. If it finds a match to the transmit frequency compared to the memory frequency, it sends an “AS” (already stored) message, indicating that the transmit frequency matches the found memory frequency, so that the operator can be made aware that the transmit frequency tune was a match to the memory window found.
Setting rig power with interface module:
Keep in mind, in the tuning process, the rig is set to approx. 10 watts when tuning, you don’t have to worry about setting the power when the unit tunes. Unless you have a legacy rig that requires tuning in AM mode, you don’t have to worry about setting the power on your rig for the tuning process.
Yaesu interface settings:
TuneMatic will operate from approx 5-35 watts. When you adjust the power setting with the ALC pot on the interface, adjust between 10-20 watts output. The exact power setting is not critical, but TuneMatic works best between 8-20 watts. More power is not good for the rig and antenna when tuning, and too little (under 5 watts) will be outside the tuning sensitivity of TuneMatic.
Motor connector interface mating connector
TuneMatic stores pulsecounts into memory ‘windows’ based on the resonant point of any given frequency. The resonant point is based on antenna whip length, physical position of antenna, and optimum SWR. When you store memories in TuneMatic, it is based on the same whip and antenna. If you change either one of these, the tuning points stored in memory (based on the pulsecount) will be completely different.
The timing of the initialization depends on the power supply voltage and length of motorized antenna, typically 90 seconds for most antennas.
When my Tarheel is attached to my car, often when I park I take off the standard mobile whip and place a much longer MFJ telescopic whip on it. Obviously this changes the resonance point, but by doing this, would it require your unit to reinitialize. Does “reinitialize” mean it has to take the screwdriver to one limit and then all the way back to the other limit before starting to tune? If so, I’m guessing that would take about 5 minutes with my antenna?
When you initialize, or re-initialize, TuneMatic is moving the antenna to the top current limit point (highest direction of travel, lowest frequency), it travels back in the opposite direction, counting pulses, until it reaches the bottom current limit point. Once it gets there, it then sets the ‘soft’ limits, and now knows how many pulse counts exists in the antenna, and which direction to start out at.
If you change antennas, re-initializing will not change the memory locations, because they were memorized based on the antenna they were programmed with. If you change out the antenna, All your memories will be out of alignment with the new antenna each time. Uness you have an EXACT replacement antenna, your memories may not match with the new antenna, and you will have to factory reset the TuneMatic.
HOWEVER, if you were using a different whip on a specific band, you could store the bands you operate whip “A”, then remove it, and store the bands you operate on whip “B”. The memories wouldn’t care which antenna was used, but you would have to remember which bands used which antennas. Otherwise you would get tuning errors that TuneMatic would not be able to easily correct. If the changes were slight, TuneMatic would automatically attempt to correct them, but large changes it would not.
How does the new version 5.x firmware differ from the older versions?
The biggest change is how it tunes the lowest SWR. With the older firmware, it looks for a dip, and memorizes the pulse count as it finds it, then returns the antenna back to the pulsecount that had the lowest dip. With the newer software, it works the same, except it returns back to the lowest SWR dip point instead of the pulsecount value, which results in more effective tunes, as the pulsecount is not as finite as the actual DIP.
The second change is during re-tunes (on existing memories). It will return back to the stored memory, but when it checks it, if it is unsatisfactory (>1.5), it will try to re-correct by moving up a few pulsecounts, then attempts to re-tune for a new dip. When it finds the new dip, it stores the new position. If for some reason it can’t find it, it then sends out the ‘e-e-e-e-e’ message, and parks the antenna. This allows the user to try the tune again, which automatically re-calibrates the pulse count when it parks. If it can’t find it on the second tune, then something is seriously wrong. It will repeat the process each time again.
This significantly helps the little Tarheel antenna tuning performance. We only charge the customers a small handling fee to process the paperwork, etc. and request the old chip back. Changing out the chip will not affect memories or settings, so it is a seamless swap out.
When I initialize the antenna, it moves about 1/8 of the way up, then stops with a “PE” error. What is wrong?(UPDATED 7/7/18)
The PE error indicates there are no pulses being detected. To check, manually move the antenna and look for the sun symbol flashing during movement. If it is not flashing, then you don’t have pulses. You can self-troubleshoot by unplugging the motor connector cable, and shorting the 2 leads OPPOSITE the notch with a paper clip (pins 3 & 4). The sun LED on the remote should remain on. If it does, then re-connect the cable, and check at the antenna for the same result. As long as there is a short on the 2 pins 3 & 4 of the connector, the LED should remain ON. If the LED never lights up, there may be either an issue with the TuneMatic unit, or the remote cabling.
The latest firmware (5.43) has a buit in troubleshooting feature specifically for checking the pulse sensor operation with a continuous ‘beep’ when the sensor leads are shorted together. Just hold the STORE button (BOX) when applying power until you hear the ‘TU’ message and release. If you short the motor sensor leads (the ones OPPOSITE the notch, not on either side), the TuneMatic unit will start beeping every 1/2 second or so until you remove the short. You can test this at the TuneMatic unit first, then at the antenna to locate where the pulse leads are open or intermittent.
When using the Scorpion 680 Antenna, I get the “PE” error, and have to re-initialize the antenna. What is causing this?
The Scorpion antennas use an 18v motor, and typically do not have enough voltage when TuneMatic is moving at the slower speeds. This is further enhanced when the vehicle motor is not running. There is an internal adjustment to speed up the slower motion on the antenna, and the v 5.43 firmware (as of 3/1/18) has additional compensation on the speed adjustment to resolve this matter. Contact the factory for a Firmware update.
Whenever I intialize or move the antenna,in stops with a “PE” error. What is wrong?
TuneMatic is not sensing pulses. To check this, disconnect the motor connector (the square connector with the notch). Position the female connector on the TuneMatic so that the notch faces upward. The two connections on either side of the notch are the motor leads, and the botom two are the sensor leads. With the power on to the TuneMAtic, short the two bottom ensor leads. Observe the sun LED on the remote, and it should remain on. If it does, you will need to repeat this step at the antenna for the same result. If the LED does illuminate, then there is an issue with the cabling or connections. If the LED does NOT illuminate, contact the factory for further troubleshooting assistance.
KENWOOD TUNING ISSUE
When first operating the TuneMatic on power up, upon pressing Tune or Store function, the TuneMatic does not key the rig the very first time. Instead, it sends the “PWR” “FR” message. For whatever reason, some Kenwood rigs have not ‘set up’ the communications parameters immediately. Pressing the Tune or Store button a second time will resolve this. It only occurs the very first time the rig is powered up. After that, it operates correctly.
FIRMWARE 5.43 features
Version 5.43 has included a means to manually OR automatically re-tune any memory. If you are already on an existing memory and wish to re-tune, simply press the TUNE button on the TuneMatic remote, and it will re-tune the transmit frequency to the lowest SWR, and re-store the memory to the new tune location. Note that it will also automatically re-tune the memory if it measures an SWR is above 1.5 on a memory.
UNUSUAL MOVEMENT DURING MEMORY TUNES
TuneMatic always approaches a memory position from the UP direction, and slows as it reaches the memory. This improves movement, as well as compensates for gravity, whether or not it is moving up or down to a memory. When moving down, it will move beyond the memory, then approach it in the up direction. If already moving up to a memory, it simply slows until it reaches the memory position.
NO OERATION WITH ICOM INTERFACE
First, verify if power is exiting the Icom. The rear panel AH-4 tuner port connector has 4 pins. Locate the 2 pins furthest from the wedge shape. These two pins have 12v and ground. Check to make sure there is power at these two pins (the first pin closest to the flat portion of the connector is ground, and the second pin is 12v). Check with the rig turned on. The second test is to verify the interface is operational. Connect the interface to the rig, and disconnect the female connector from the TuneMatic. You will see 3 of the 4 pins installed in the connector. You want the pins furthest from the blank pin (the blank pin is pin #4). Check for 12v between pins 1 & 2 on the female connector. Pin 1 is 12v, and pin 2 is ground. "PE"/PULSE ERROR TROUBLESHOOTING The "RI" message occurs if there are no/or missing pulses while the antenna is moving. Once this occurs, the TuneMatic de-initializes, and only operates as an up/down controller. It can be caused by any and/or all of the following: 1) Intermittent connection to the motor, either the motor leads or the sensor leads, 2) Intermittent or defective motor sensor (inside the antenna), or 3) Internal issue with TuneMatic main unit. To troubleshoot this issue, the TuneMatic contains a built-in test mode for the pulse sensor circuit, To test, first place the TuneMatic in test mode; hold down the STORE button, apply power while holding it down., then release the button while message is sending. This mode places the TuneMatic in a continuity mode, so that you can test the pulse sensor circuit on your system. Disconnect the motor lead, and short out the two leads OPPOSITE the notched pins with a small wire or paper clip inserted into the connector pins of the TuneMatic, and this will cause the TuneMatic to beep, and the sun symbol on the remote will remain on. If this passes, then re-connect the cable. and move the test to the antenna motor cable at the base of the antenna.Repeat the test. The second test requires a dummy load, which connects in place of the antenna. After factory reset, and initialization of the antenna, move the antenna until approximately 1" of coil is exposed. Find a frequency on a high band (10m-15m), and store the frequency by pressing STORE. Note the frequency stored, and mark the antenna as to the physical position of the antenna. Now move the antenna up until approx 3" of coil is exposed. Tune the radio to a different band (20-40m) and note the frequency. Press STORE, and mark the antenna as to the physical position to the antenna. Go back and forth several times between the two frequencies using the Tune command, and note the accuracy of the positions on the two bands, You should get consistent repeatability between the two stored frequencies on the antenna. If you do not get repeatability, then there may be a sensor issue with the antenna. Re-cycling power will place TuneMatic back to normal operation. Using multiple antennas with TuneMatic products: TuneMatic stores pulse counts into memories on whatever frequency/band for whatever antenna that is in use. Since TuneMatic relies on a resonant antenna at the stored frequency, there are several parameters that come into play: 1) The antenna installation, 2) The grounding, 3) The physical length of the antenna (including any whip or 'stinger'), 4) Any external coils, inductors, capacitors, etc that are installed and part of the antenna. Change in any of the above will affect the tuning of the antenna, hence the tuning of the TuneMatic unit. As an example; I have an antenna with two different whip antennas. I find that the longer whip will not resonate on 10 and 6 meters. Conversely, the shorter whip will not resonate on 80/160 meters. Since TuneMatic stores memories based on the parameters above, it doesn't care what the physical properties are, as long as the antenna will resonate with an SWR <=1.5:1. So I can use both whips to cover 6-160, but I have to change them for all band operation. So I can either 1) Use the short whip on 6/10m, and the long whip on all other bands, or 2) Use the long whip on 80/160, and the short whip on all other bands. Whatever decision made, stick to #1, or #2 when using TuneMatic. Here is another option: I have two different antennas, and want to use antenna "A" on 80/160, and the other antenna on all other bands. You can also do this as well, HOWEVER, you will have to 'park' the antenna each time you swap them, so that the pulse count remains calibrated. What you CAN'T do is swap antennas/ setups on the fly and try to use both antennas on the SAME bands. If you want to use two DIFFERENT controllers, regardless of the make/model, you also have to Park the antenna before swapping controllers. DO NOT TRY TO WIRE THE CONTROLLERS IN PARALLEL, as you will damage the TuneMatic. You MUST use a in-line switch to select between the two controllers. FT-857/897, and the Y-1 interface: The Y-1 interface that works with the Yaseu FT-857, 897, 891, and FT-991 contain an ALC generator circuit, so that when the rig keys, it operates at 10-15w output. On occasion, the rig does not key. Here are some tests you can perform, if either the rig interface does not function, or there is no transmit: 1) Locate a male-male 3.5mm patch cable. 2) Connect antenna to a dummy load or resonant antenna on any HF frequency to the rig HF antenna port. 3) Connect the 3.5mm patch cable to the AUX jack on the rig. 4) Short the RING connection to the shield (ground). The rig should key at full power in CW mode.